seasonal fare, exceptional service: summit house

Summit House, in Summit, NJ, is one of the latest additions to the long-awaited restaurant overhaul so desperately needed in the area. I like to give new restaurants some space before jumping to form a view. Even the best sometimes need time to find their rhythm. Not needed here: from my first visit, I knew Summit House was different. Right from the start, the team delivered the delicious food and excellent service I have now come to enjoy time and again. Whether it is a casual lunch, date night, or a meal with friends, Summit House makes every meal feel special.

photo by jenn kosar

Summit House almost did not happen.  The vision of owners Dylan and Melissa Baker and Tyler and Sara Reeder for a fully licensed addition to the Summit restaurant scene suffered a few fits and starts before finally coming to fruition almost a year ago. Situated in a building with a history that begins in 1896, the renovation required addressing an underground pool as well as a chopped-up space used for prior retail areas. We now enjoy a large, inviting wrap-around dining area thanks to their tireless efforts. The art deco ceilings, large and comfy banquettes, spacious bar area, and open kitchen all seem as though they have occupied the space forever. The attention to detail of the designers and owners is evident at every turn.

photo by jenn kosar

Let’s get to the food.  While offering the now-basically-mandatory seasonal menu, Summit House offers a consistent thread: honoring the food of its New Jersey home. Seafood plays a strong role, with daily raw bar selections of the freshest oysters, clams, mussels, shrimp, and lobster the coast has to offer.  Barnegat Bay Oysters are routinely featured, as are my personal favorites, the Barnegat Light scallops. You can add them (as well as other seafoods and proteins) to any salad or “bowl” offered at lunchtime, including my current favorite, the quinoa and lentil Bliss Bowl.

photo by jenn kosar

Carnivores need not worry; meat is also locally sourced from as close as Riverbend Farm in Bernardsville, NJ, including a delicious burger topped with Bacon Meurette (loosely translated as “bacon in a red wine sauce”). Just be sure to order it medium or medium rare to enjoy it at its best. Wagyu beef is nearly always on the menu as a main course, paired with seasonal vegetables and side dishes.

photo by jenn kosar

I am getting ahead of myself, menu wise, but perhaps that is their intention. One of the things I love most about Summit House is the ability to structure your meal however you please. The slightly smaller portion sizes in most categories invite ordering around the page, and nearly every item is designed for sharing. A testament to service focus of manager Justin Lord, formerly the sommelier at Per Se, the servers don’t bat an eyelash when I order three rounds of appetizers and call it a meal.

The “snacks” are all delicious, and the perfect complement to your pre-dinner cocktail.  Which you can enjoy like a proper adult, because they are fully licensed.  Try the seasonally flavored popcorn with champagne or the charred lemon and marjoram cured olives with the vesper, a gin-based cocktail with a touch of Chopin and Lillet Blanc.  Or ask head mixologist, Bobby Frascella, to whip you up something special.

photo by jenn kosar

If you were dining with me, you would then move on to a cheese and charcuterie course. Summit House makes this easy, with the ability to select just one of the daily offerings. Or go for it and order them all. They are served with their ideal accompaniment, sized for anywhere from two to a few people to enjoy a perfect little bite or two.

Summit House’s strong selection of wines by the glass allows you to select the perfect drink to go with any course. I love the rich and buttery Clos Pegase Chardonnay to keep up with all those flavors on the palette, and Gary enjoys the local beer selection from throughout NJ, NY, and PA, including two of our favorites, Forgotten Boardwalk in NJ and Yards Brewery near Philadelphia.

photo by jenn kosar

The rest of the menu continues to delight, no surprise given the restaurant pedigree of executive chef Martin Kester. The lunchtime salads are truly satisfying, filled with ancient grains and optional proteins. At dinner, two can enjoy a pasta course, as it is appropriately sized to enjoy without carb-loading. All are delicious; the acquerello risotto with white cheddar and rye cavatelli with brown butter and pecans were both standouts.

In my view, the seafood dishes are the Chef Kester’s best performances. From tilefish to salmon, all are consistently cooked to perfection and served with inventive, seasonal accompaniments. The deconstructed salmon tartare appetizer gets a jolt of flavor from jalapeños and yuzu dressing. The wester ross salmon shines bright in spring with artichokes and meyer lemon and smooth and rich in winter with velvety beluga lentils and purple carrots.

photo by jenn kosar

I will admit, I am difficult to dazzle when it comes to dessert. As is often the case, the final course left little to report positive or negative. The ice cream is always good, and I appreciate the unique seasonal flavors. I love that cheese is officially re-introduced on the dessert menu, as it should be. Perhaps Chef Kester is of the same mindset as I am when it comes to dessert. Another glass of wine, lingered over with friends, is the best way to end an evening.

photo by jenn kosar

Summit House

395 Springfield Avenue⋅Summit, NJ⋅(908) 273-6000⋅www.summithousenj.com⋅book it on OpenTable

---

Have a favorite new spot in the area?  Share and let us know your view.  Follow me on Pinterest to see where I’m off to next, or join the discussion on Facebook to see all my dining out adventures.

In the neighborhood?  Join us at the brand-new SOMA Eats Local for a discussion on the best of the dining out scene in South Orange, Maplewood, and surrounding towns.